First there was Gunpowder. Then came Madame D. And this autumn saw the arrival of Gul & Sepoy, the third restaurant from Indian owners Harneet and Devina Baweja – and I think this most recent one could just be their best yet!
Gul & Sepoy sees a clash of flavours, with opulent dishes from the royal courts of Northern India sitting alongside the more laidback, rustic approach of the South Western Indian coastline. It’s lavish menus from age-old banquets of the Raj palaces, versus provincial style-food associated with the soldiers of the Indian army who would cook whilst on the move. And it’s a winning combination.
Chocolatey rum Old Fashioneds set us up for the feast of sharing plates, with Potted Pig Head, Paneer Roganjosh and Jack Fruit & Walnut Galouti being the absolute must-try dishes. (Note that there are plenty of strong vegetarian dishes too.) We demolished six dishes between two people, and there were honestly no weak links.
Leave space for dessert – rum-soaked doughnuts and a dark chocolate delight were the perfect finale.
Gul & Sepoy
65 Commercial St, Shoreditch, London E1 6BD
Photos: Steven Joyce