Peruvian food is having a serious moment in London at the moment. I loved Señor Ceviche; Pachamama, Andina, Lima London and Lima Floral are all high on my To Do list; so it was only right that I head back to London’s original, authentic Peruvian kitchen: Ceviche on Soho’s Frith Street.
Founded by Peru-born Martin Morales, Ceviche started as a supper club, progressing to a series of pop-ups, and finally a permanent residency on Frith Street in Soho.
I headed down with Richard one Sunday evening (it gets busy, and this was the only time we could get a table at a couple of days’ notice!).
The ceviche & pisco bar resembles a fish market (zinc-topped, white-tiled and fishing boat red), whereas the main restaurant is inspired by Barranco (Lima’s version of Soho) – the colours, metal edged mirrors, wooden floors, artefacts on shelves and posters are all inspired by Bar Juanito in Barranco.
We sat at a bistro table in the restaurant – which was very dark and atmospheric, lit by candles and set to a 100% Peruvian soundtrack.
The cocktail menu is 100% pisco-focused – my Sol & Luz (£8) was fruity, sweet and more-ish. We chowed down on Pork Chifa Tequeños while we selected dishes from the menu to share (3-4 per person).
Don Ceviche (£8) – fresh sea bass ceviche in amarillo chilli tiger’s milk with sweet potato and red onions:
Sakura Maru (£7.50) – salmon in Nikkei tiger’s milk made with satsumas, soy sauce and limo chilli, and an Ensalada de Quinoa salad (£6):
A skewer of Pulpo & Chorizo (£11), and a Baile de Gallina chicken dish (£7.50):
Dessert was a Rocoto Panna Cotta (£5.90) to share – although very vegetable-sounding from the menu (“sweet rococo pepper panna cotta, vanilla, sweet potato coulis, quinoa crisp”) this was the dish to garner the most compliments, and we definitely ended the meal on a high.
Ceviche would make a great date spot – the food is good, but actually it was the vibe and atmosphere that most hit the spot for me. It is pricier than Señor Ceviche, but it’s also more sophisticated and authentic in its execution.
Photos by Paul Winch-Furness.
17 Frith Street, Soho, W1D 4RG